Valladolid, Cenotes, and Ek Balam

I'll tell you what is pretty special about Valladolid, there are several nearby limestone sinkholes filled with clear blue fresh water for swimming called cenotes.  We rented bikes for the day pedaling through different neighborhoods and out into the Mexican countryside.  

Once we crossed the railroad tracks the road turned into a single lane dirt path.  It felt like we were the only people out there as we didn't pass even a stray dog.

We arrived at Hacienda San Lorenzo and the Oxman Cenote just at they were opening so we had the place to ourselves.  We paid the $4 entry fee, locked the bikes to a tree, and descended  8 flights of stairs down through the door of a hut to the cenote.

We had the place completely to ourselves before anyone else came, including the attendant! We were giddy with excitement, it was so incredible.  The water is a deep clear blue with just some small black catfish swimming around.  There are ropes that cross the water and along the perimeter.  Those dangling things are roots of the trees above reaching all the way down for water.  We swam here for 5 hours, we couldn't bring ourselves to leave.  There were never more than a few other tourists here.  We took a break and ate a tasty and enormous plate of nachos poolside at the hacienda on the property.

This Cenote had a super fun Tarzan swing that swung you way out to the middle and launched you into the water.  So great!

The next day we got a 3$ colectivo  taxi for a 30 minute ride to the Ek Balam ruins and the adjoining X'Canche cenote.  I've seen lots of ruins, but not Mayan ones so I was looking forward to it.  We arrived about 9:00 am and were just about the only souls there.  There is a shaded and pretty path that takes you to the ruins.

It only took about 90 minutes to cover the whole site, including climbing to the top of the main pyramid.  Surrounded by jungle, it's one of the newly excavated sites and stunning. Climbing the steps is tough, but coming down is vertigo inducing.  I just went down sideways with my eyes glued to the steps.  I didn't dare look out while descending or I would have gotten really dizzy.  Tip: bring a bandana or something to wipe the continuous pouring of sweat off of your face.  It's wicked hot.  

Time for another cenote! From the ruins there is a path to the cenote ticket booth.  The whole place is very organized with toilets, changing areas, showers, and lockers. Tip: bring your own lock for the lockers unless you want to rent one for $1. 

This cenote is an "eco park" so it's petty organized and offers some interesting activities.  You can just pay the $3 enterance fee and walk 2 kilometers on a shady lane to the cenote.  We opted for the complete package where for $17 we had a round trip ride in a bicycle taxi, enterance to the cenote, 2 turns on a zip line that went across the cenote, and then repel down into the water below.  Utterly fantastic and worth every dollar.

We were content with the little rope swing and 10 feet high diving platform....until we saw someone jump off one of the stairway landings.  My best guess is it was about 45 feel or so.  Maya knew she had to do it! It took her a good while to work up the nerve but by the time she was ready she had the whole place cheering her on.

Returning  back to Valladolid was easy as there was a colectivo waiting to be filled.  We ate quesadillas and empanadas for lunch for a whopping $3 then returned for siesta at the hotel. Speaking of the hotel we are staying at the brand new Casa Valladolid Boutique Hotel which is a restored colonial building and is absolutely beautiful.

We are truly enjoying our time in Valladolid.  We are safe and at ease.  Walking at night for the square back to them is completely benign and safe as there are many people walking around.  Thus far there is a notable absence of catcalling and unwanted attention.  People have been extremely kind and helpful.  We have 2 more full days here before departing for Bacalar.

I'll end with picture of the many vintage VW bugs we see every 5 minutes here!

A Little More Holbox

Gosh we really like this place.  Lots of people plan a trip to just Holbox, it's easy to see why.  There are mostly Mexican and European vacationing families here, very few Americans and none with children.  There are some really really nice places to stay, and the island is well on its way to being built up,  there is construction everywhere you look.  At least there don't seem to be any high rises, as most buildings are a few stories and built with a traditional look of exposed wood and thatch roofs.  I can't imagine how this small place with so little infrastructure will be able to sustain the consumption and waste production that is sure to be overwhelming if it isn't already.

But on to happier things.  We had a 24  hour bike rental ($11) which was excellent fun.  Typical beach bike, easy to ride on the sand.  From our hotel we rode about 2 miles east, past the hotels, where the beach is completely undeveloped and goes on for miles and miles.  The trees go right up to the edge of the water so it's easy to find shade for me, and blazing sun for Maya.   We brought a little fruit and water and were set for the day.

You can wade way far out and the crystal water never gets more than thigh deep.  It's endless and breathtaking.  We saw skates and horseshoe crabs swimming right by.

We had the perfect spot in the most beautiful place.

This beauty goes on forever with just a few people here and there, most folks are at the main public beach in town or at their resort beach clubs.  We really had the most lovely day.  We returned the bikes and went back to the hotel, turned the AC on and cooled down.  The place we are staying isn't posh but it works.  It's central but quiet.  The breakfast is decent and there are interesting guests to talk with at the table.

There's a kitchen with basic supplies.  We have made ourselves guacamole and scrambled eggs on tortillas for lunch a few times.

The place has 3 guest rooms in the main part and a bungalow out back, which is where we stayed.  Nothing fancy but the bed is comfy and the AC cools the room down quickly.

A little garden at the entrance.

We leave for Valladolid in the morning, taking the 7:00 am ferry, then the 7:30 bus to Tizimin, then finding a bus or collectivo to get us to Valladolid.  Adios Isla Holbox, we loved you!

Swimming With Whale Sharks

We arranged the trip through our hotel but one could easily just go anywhere in town advertising tours and likely get the  same thing.  It's all a pretty organized racket.  The golf cart showed up at 7:00 am at our hotel, Posada La Catrina, and took us to the dock, handed us off to a guide who communicated with the captains and led us to a boat.  Snorkeling with whale sharks is highly regulated and they don't mess around.  Only 8 passengers in the boat with 2 crew are allowed, but there doesn't seem to be a limit on the number of boats permitted as about 10 boats were filling up with tourists when we arrived.  There are wildlife regulations to follow as well, the boats can only be a certain distance from the animals and only the guide and 2 tourists in the water at a time.  There is also a no touching rule, needed because we got so close we literally could reach out and touch them.  We paid $100 per person for the trip which I think is pretty standard.  

A word of warning about that boat trip to the whale shark migration sight.  If you are prone to any motion sickness whatsoever do not eat any breakfast.  People were up chucking their continentals within 15 minutes.  The boat is covered with an awning but layer on the sunscreen or wear a shirt.  Use the bathroom before you go because the ride is a slammer....and you can't pee with the whale sharks because you aren't in the water very long.  Lastly, I wish I would have taken ibuprofen before we left.  My back is incredibly stiff and sore from 2 hours of slamming the waves in open water.  It was a rough ride.....and the seas were calm! It's a looooooong ride.  

Open water! For real, the island was just  to of view.  We were in deep gulf waters but I was absolutely determined not to be scared.  When we got to the sight they said ok we need two people now! There is a sense of urgency because the massive creatures are migrating and feeding, it's not like you know what their exact itinerary is, it's easy to miss your chance.  So we volunteered to go first....get the fins on! Here's the mask! Jump in right after me!  Ok here we go dropping ourselves off the side of the boat into water so deep there was no seeing the bottom.

Those are photos of the couple that went after us.  You get 2 opportunities to snorkel.  Maya had an underwater camera case and took this  video it will make you a little dizzy but it was really hard to capture the moment in open water. 

After snorkeling you get back in the oat and they take your to a little reef.  Not the best snorkeling but we did see 2 manta rays and had some fun.

The third stop on the tour is to a river delta where we walked around a bit and got sun burned.  We also ate the most amazing ceviche I have ever had, that they made for us on the boat. 

After a long rest we followed the evening routine of sunset watching at the pier, eating street tacos, gambling at Mexican bingo (la loteria), and eating a marquesita which is a crepe with Nutella.  

We will do the exact same thing tonight and tomorrow !

Isla Holbox

This little island off the north coast of the Yucatan Peninsula has definitely been "discovered" by tourists and backpackers but it is still precious.  Our travel day getting here was long with 2 flights, 2 buses, a ferry,  and a golf cart.  At the Cancun airport we landed at terminal 3, ran the gauntlet of touts and out the door towards the ADO bus ticket kiosk which is just behind the margarita shack.  We bought our ticket for the next bus to the central Cancun bus station and waited about  45 minutes.  Once at the central bus station we got in line for the last bus at 12:50 to Chiquila where we would get a ferry.  They ferry is pretty straightforward, no haggling or touts.  They leave every half hour and takes about 20 minutes.  Once on the island look left to the golf cart taxi stand and wait for the next one.  They all charge a standard 30 pesos so that was easy too.  I wasn't sure where our hotel was so we decided on the taxi.

The singular ATM machine on Holbox is known to run out of money so it's wise to get money at the airport ATM in Cancun. I should have changed dollars too but I thought over the course of 5 days here I would get lucky at least once for a withdrawal. Unfortunately the machine here doesn't like my card, so while it will dispense money for others it will not for me.  But it's ok, I've put away what I need to get off the island to our next place and we will have all our meals at street carts and the market to save.  The restaurants are pretty expensive with most mains costing 11-14$ but the tacos found at the street carts at night cost us 4$.

 

Its mighty hot here, we spend a lot of time hanging at the beach in a scrap of shade.  The water is crystal clear and shallow, hotter than the air sometimes.

One of the nicest things  to do is watch the sunset at the pier, pretty spectacular.

Another free thing is to walk around and check out the murals painted a few years ago.  Pic credits to Maya.

The streets are sand there aren't any cars except a few work trucks here and there.  When it rains is floods the streets so you gotta be careful in flip flops. 

We volunteered to walk rescue dogs at Refugio Holbox and we also brought them a dozen leashes and collars for their cause.

Tourists can come daily at 4 pm and walk their dogs.  It's was pretty fun. 

Another nearly free thing to do is take up street side gambling, available for all ages.  You put your small coin on a picture, the guy shakes his box of die and if his roll matches your picture choice you win double your money.

We have four full days here so there will be more to come!  We are off to catch another sunset....