6.25.2024

The Montana of Japan

Hokkaidō is like the Montana of Japan, if Montana had rice fields, volcanoes, and a longer snow season.  Up here, it’s rural and mountainous with miles of farmland so it’s not the Japan of my imagination.  

Hokkaido is like its own world and it’s so far north that only 27 miles separate Japan from Russia.  We had the day in Niseko to acclimate and try to adjust to the time zone and remain awake during the day. Thanks to a teacher at Vicki’s school who is out of the country we have use of her comfortable apartment.  The view from her window looks out on to ducks living their best lives swimming in green rice fields, providing a nice example of symbiotic farming called the aigamo method.

After settling in we went to 7 Eleven for picnic foods and drove to lake Toya for the volcano museum, picnic, and a walk.  Convince store meals are different in Japan.  For about $5 can buy fresh onigiri and various single serving side dishes for a super filling and healthy meal, it’s the Japanese version of street food. 




We are currently on a 4 day road trip to explore a few places.  Taking a scenic route through the mountains the first stop was Furano to visit Farm Tomita where fields of poppies, lavender, daisy, and lupine are in full bloom.  It’s a popular sight to see in Hokkaidō so we weren't the only ones there by any means.  Lavender is the main feature of the farm and the visitors really get into it by dressing in purple to match the fields.  We happily joined the tour bus crowds to snap photos and eat lavender ice cream.  



After being on the road all day we finally arrive in Asahikawa.  Unexpectedly oppressive and grim, the city is decidedly not cute.  The architecture resembles something like a Soviet bloc country, there’s trash on the streets, the apartment for the four of us is a bit cramped, and the weather is grey and damp. We planned to stay 4 nights and use Asahikawa as a base for exploring the area but very quickly decide to cut our losses for the fourth night, condense our plans, and leave a day early.  

The big draw to Asahikawa a visit to Mt Asahidake in Daisetsuzan National Park. Seeing rain in the forecast we decide to make our trip to the mountain for the only sunny day.  Since summiting the mountain is serious and for prepared hikers only, we opt for a gondola ride up and a 1.7 k pathway around the base of the mountain that takes about 90 minutes. On this active volcano we are treated to stunning alpine scenery, with patches of snow still remaining, and clear blue skies.  





Back in Asahikawa we really enjoyed yakiniku on a Hokkaidō style Jingisukan barbecue.  All manner of meats are available, including horse meat.  We opted for a more typical selection of mutton and Wagyu beef.  That beef really does melt in your mouth no matter how well done a person like me likes it.  We chose this place solely because of the unique curved green door entrance.  You get your own little curtained cubby hole dining area where you remove your shoes before sitting at a low table on a cushion.







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